DIY NAS: 2013 Edition

| 24 Comments

About a year ago, I published a series of blogs about building a DIY NAS (Network Attached Storage) which has been a pretty popular series of articles judging by the traffic it sees. Looking at my Google Analytics many of the search queries that drive traffic to my blogs seem to be from people who want to do something similar. Since my original articles are over a year old, I thought it would be a good subject for an additional article to write about building a NAS at the beginning of 2013.

So far, I couldn't be happier with my NAS. I use it primarily for the backups of all of our PCs. Additionally, I upgraded my computer at the end of 2012 and the NAS came in pretty handy there in holding backups and offloading nearly 2 terabytes worth media storage onto the NAS.

If a friend were building a NAS today, I would suggest very much that he go the same route that I went; to start with FreeNAS and then to either use spare PC parts lying around the house or to build a new PC using inexpensive, low-power parts and as many hard drives as he could afford. Assuming my friend didn't have a cache of spare PC parts like I seem to perpetually have, here's a summary of new parts that I'd suggest:

Motherboard & CPU

Motherboard wound up being the most difficult decision that I made last time, and this time was no different. The ideal motherboard is a unique creature something inexpensive, low-power, with gigabit Ethernet and as many SATA ports as possible. In my research, I found the ASUS C60M1-I AMD Fusion APU C-60 which features: a mini-ITX form factor, an integrated AMD dual core 1.0GHz processor, on board gigabit Ethernet and a whopping 6 SATA ports for a really reasonable price of $79.99.

Even if you have a ton of spare PC parts lying around, this may wind up being a better deal in the long run. The power-sipping features of the mini-ITX form factor mean your daily operational costs for running the NAS are going to be cheaper. In my original research, I determined that the amount of power the mini-ITX motherboard would save me over a traditional motherboard amounted to about $75.00 a year, which means combined the motherboard & CPU would nearly pay for itself in the first 12 months.

Running Total: $79.99

RAM

The hardware recommendations page for FreeNAS says that the best way to get the most out of your FreeNAS box is to give it as much RAM as you can. The motherboard I picked can support up to 8GB of RAM, so I went ahead and priced out the maximum amount of memory that the motherboard would support. A two piece set of the G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB DDR3 1066 F3-8500CL7D-8GBRL would wind up costing $51.95.

Update: It was pointed out to me in a Tweet that this motherboard will actually support up to 16 GB of RAM. For an additional $70 you can bring the system RAM up to 16GB. Seems like a very worthy upgrade to me. Thanks, @plgelinas!

Running Total: $131.94

Case

In my original build, the case is something I splurged on buying, a nice Lian-Li micro-ATX case. The case looks great in my office and I'm pretty happy with it. But this time around, I wanted to try and build an inexpensive NAS to show how much prices have fallen in the past year. Since I only bought four drives last year, I reduced the number of bays in my search criteria. The COOLER MASTER Elite 120 matches the criteria (mini-ITX, at least 4 drive bays, inexpensive) very well at $49.99. This case doesn't come with a power supply, so I tacked on an additional $33.86 for a 250W mini-ITX power supply.

Running Total: $215.79

Storage

FreeNAS Drive

In a typical FreeNAS installation, the OS & FreeNAS is installed and configured on a separate drive than the actual storage drives for the NAS. The suggested drive for attaching FreeNAS is actually a USB drive. In my build, I wound up buying a USB header that I plugged right into the motherboard and then zip tied the thumb drive inside the case somewhere inconspicuous. I recently bought another USB storage device for holding my music library in the car and at it's size it's entirely unnecessary to install this in the case. It can plug right into one of the USB ports on the back of the computer without getting in the way. The SanDisk Cruzer Fit - 8GB is more than adequately sized to hold what's needed for FreeNAS and it only costs $7.99.

Running Total: $223.78

NAS Drives

Here's the meat and potatoes of any NAS build. If I recall correctly, my drives accounted for around 66% of the cost of my entire build last time around. This time, that percentage went up, because I didn't splurge in some of the areas I splurged in for the last build. To reduce the impact of bad drives in particular batches, I wound up picking two of two different 3TB model drives:

Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001
Western Digital Caviar Green 3 TB WD30EZRX
$129.99
$139.99

Update: robvdl brings up a good point about the Western Digital drives in his comment below. I was previously unaware and researched a bit and have discovered this is an issue with WD Green and WD Black drives. However, I've been using two WD Green 2.0 TB drives in my FreeNAS box and haven't had any issues so far in the year that I've been using it. The Western Digital Red 3.0 TB - WD30EFRX carries a heftier price tag of $156.86 (an additional $26.87 per drive). Based off of my research, I would recommend finding a different drive than the WD Green or WD Black drives despite the fact I've been using them now for over a year without any issues.

Altogether, these four drives account for an additional $539.96. Each drive is in the ballpark of the prices that I spent last year, but comes with the added 1TB of additional space on each drive, for a total of 4 additional TBs. That's a pretty significant boost in storage compared to the NAS I built at the beginning of 2012.

Final Price: $763.74

Conclusion

In 2012, I paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $850-$900 for my FreeNAS machine. It wound up containing a total of 8TB of storage space. By juggling around the prices a little bit this year I was able to price out a fairly equivalent machine with an additional 50% of usable storage space for the NAS. Dropping this machine down to an 8TB FreeNAS would've brought the price down between $20-$30 per drive down to a very reasonable price range of $650 to $685. Because of FreeNAS and falling hardware prices, it's getting quite affordable to build a very functional NAS for your home storage needs.

Related Articles:

24 Comments

Have you considered ECC RAM? When I was looking at building my first ZFS box, ECC RAM was mentioned as highly desirable. That's because ZFS makes such heavy use of RAM when composing HDD writes.

The M/B I recently bought was $180. The RAM, $145. That's a +$195 or so over your cost. Details of what I bought here in my blog post.

You should never put a western digital green in a raid configuration, a friend of mine actually did this a number of years ago and the drives didn't even last a year.

The western digital green parks it's heads all the time, and when put into a raid configuration this wears the drive out very quickly, as the heads park all the time the drives goes through it's maximum amount of starts/stops in under a year.

For cheap RAID drives, the WD RED is a much better choice, although they are fairly new drives still.

Actually, if you do even more homework you will find that with wdidle.exe the intellipark technology can be changed(or even disabled). I know several people(including myself) that have had WD Green drives for more than 2 years and they make excellent low power options for servers. Some people have had more than 20 Green drives with zero issues. It's all about doing your research and knowing what to do with the Green drives. If you search the FreeNAS forums this has been explained plenty of times. :)

WD Green drives aren't a good option any more than any other non-enterprise drive.

Brian
Thanks for putting this together. I am a fairly capable puter nerd but lack the depth of knowledge required to decide on the hardware. You made it very easy to shop for the components and get a product much more expandable that the off the shelf models. I am so very close to completing my exact build less a few hdd's. How the heck does the PS fit in the case? Any help would be awesome! thanks!!

There is one problem with your setup though.. well, two actually ;-)

a) The board (C60M1-I) is hard to obtain.. have a problem with it that needs RMA with Asus? Kiss your board goodbye for good, since there are no replacements available. Which brings me right to
b) The board, except for its obvious great technical values, is a piece of shit. In fact it's the first board that didn't survive a SUCCESSFUL BIOS update (according to the Asus-BIOS-internal update tool). The other thing is, the PSU connector is WAY too tight. If you have to unplug the board, be >VERYVERY

I had two of these fuckers and both were ruined, one for the bios, the other for the hairline fracture reason. I have been building PCs and updating MBs and several other firmwares since 1992 and NEVER had a single one give out on me. But this board is done so badly, physically as well as virtually (ie. the supplied bios coming with it), that two gave out on me within hours of me getting them. Thankfully I at least got the money I paid for one of the two back (was too lazy to go through the whole ordeal AGAIN for the second board that basically killed itself). ;-)

Now I'm with a NAS minus a mainboard. The Asus E45M1-I looks like the logical choice in an ITX box, but honestly I'm somewhat weary, having gotten to know the "quality" products Asus pumps out these days. That and you can't get the board anyhow.

Anyone got any suggestions for a similar mainboard (many SATA, best passively cooled CPU, at least one GBIT Ethernet port, mini itx layout), please let me know. If not, maybe I have at least saved one person the troubles I had with that product (C60M1-I).

Peace out,
HiSPeed

Is the suggested power supply sufficient to power 4 drives, the motherboard, the RAM? Just curious.

Ah I see, the wattage should suffice then. But it should be worth noting that the case suggested, the Cooler Master Elite 120, accepts an ATX power supply. I don't think the mini ITX power supply suggested will fit in it. I am looking at the Antec Earthwatts 380d instead.

I was just wondering if this motherboard was powerful enough to stream videos across a network. I plan on using a very similar setup to this and store all my media on this server then stream it across my network to an appletv. Has anyone tried something like this yet?

Hi Brian.
First off, thank you for sharing your build. Secondly, I have a question about the PSU. Your selected mITX PSU has only a single SATA power connector. How did you go about connecting four SATA drives? If you used a few Molex-to-SATA adaptors, how well does this work with SATA III devices?

Thanks,
Don

Hi, very useful article! Thanks! I'm new to building NAS drives, so it has been valuable.

I have a couple of questions though.

That motherboard is near impossible to find in the UK, not sure if it has been discontinued. But I agree, it looked perfect for a NAS drive.

I am looking at the other one you mentioned, the Gigabyte GA-E350N AMD. What is the max mem on this?

I'm torn between using FreeNAS and OpenMediaVault. For FreeNAS you seem to need a lot of memory for it. What are the advantages over OpenMediaVault? Is RAID-Z worth it? Does it allow you to add more drives without having to rebuild the raid?

Many thanks!

Does ZFS allow you to add further drives later on without having to rebuild the raid and lose everything?

What are the Plugins like with FreeNas? Are they plentiful and easy to install?

I only considered OMV because of the less steep memory requirements. But I will give both of them a try on a virtual machine to get a feeling.

Though looking at OMV I'd need a HDD for the OS to run off as they do not recommend a USB Flash Drive.

Thanks again!

Leave a comment

Follow Brian

Archives